Showing posts with label glynn purnell. Show all posts
Showing posts with label glynn purnell. Show all posts

Tuesday, 1 February 2011

Bass..how low can you go?



I think it's time to talk a little food, not done that for a while and really it was the reason why I started the blog in the first plaice so lets reel it in and get back to basics.

(The fishy related puns in that opening paragraph are purely unin'tench'ional............sorry I just can't stop it now)

So last night after having the daytime urge to cook some Sea Bass I rustled up a rather yummy taste sensation even if I do say so myself, easily worthy of any top restaurant table.

The fish itself is in season so you'd expect it to be at it's best and also at it's best price however I think Waitrose don't seen to get this concept meaning I had to pay around £9.00 for 4 rather skinny fillets, that said they were very fresh. If you want to give this dish a go then 2 fillets per person will make a decent sized main course.

First up I made a little Fennel salad which I wanted to use as the base of the dish. Fennel and Fish go so well together in fact since discovering this food partnership when I was in Italy I can't remember ever cooking fish without fennel.



Take a fennel bulb and trim off the root end and the hollow stems removing any grubby or discoloured outer leaves then thinly slice them lengthways before tipping into a salad bowl.

To this add half a shallot again thinly sliced lengthways, I prefer to use the long banana (enchalon) shallots for this as the shape compliments the shape of the sliced fennel but you can use normal shallots or even 1/4 of red onion.



Finely chop a bunch of flat leaf parsley adding this to the bowl then dress the whole lot with extra virgin olive oil, a pinch of salt (sea salt preferably) and a good grind of black pepper. Set the bowl aside to let the flavours combine.

There are a lot of raw flavours in that salad which I thought might over power the main dish so to soften them up a little I made a basic cherry tomato sauce which I poured over the salad whilst still warm. The residual heat from the tomato sauce is just enough to take the raw edge off the other ingredients.

For this sauce I got some cherry tomatoes and a small finely chopped clove of garlic. these all go into a saucepan over a medium heat and you cook them until the tomatoes start to break up. Once this starts happening add in a glug of Balsamic vinegar and about a tablespoon of caster sugar and let this bubble away for a few minutes until the sauce itself has thickened up a little.

Adding the sugar balances out the acidity that you get from the tomatoes and the balsamic vinegar. Don't be scared about using sugar in these types of sauces because once you find the right balance it makes all the difference to the finished sauce.

Pour the warm tomato sauce over the fennel salad and you can give it a good mix and then just leave to one side until serving.

Next the Sea Bass. Before you pan fry these off it's a good idea just to have the oven warm, pretty much as low as your oven will go so that once cooked they can sit in there to keep warm before plating up. The fillets themselves will only take a minute or two to cook and they are so simple.

When pan frying any fish I always give them a dusting of seasoned plain flour as this gives the outer flesh and skin a nice crispy texture when cooked, its the simple details like this that make the difference.

Get a frying pan nice and hot and add in fairly small amount of oil, about 2 or 3 tablespoons, this should be a shallow and certainly not a deep fry. Try to avoid using extra virgin olive oil for this part as you should keep that reserved for salad dressings etc, it's not going to ruin the dish if you do use it but something less aromatic for this purpose is ideal. I've recently been introduced to rapeseed oil. It's virtually flavourless and light in texture which means it's perfect for delicate flavours such as fish.

I'd recommend doing one fillet at a time firstly because you don't want to overcrowd the pan as this will make it lose heat and secondly because the fillets will start to curl up as soon as you put them into the oil and you need to be ready to push them flat to the pan and that can be tricky with two or three at once.

Take your seasoned fillet and lay in the pan skin side down. Watch how the fillet will start to curl upwards as the skin contracts. As this start happening just take a fish slice or spatula and lightly push the fillet back down against the base of the pan, hold it the for about 10 seconds, by then the skin would have started to crisp up and the fillet will hold it's shape.

After about 30/40 seconds flip the fillet over to get a bit of colour on the flesh side, maybe another 30/40 seconds then remove to an oven tray. Repeat this for all the fillets. Keep an eye on the oil though because with the seasoned flour being added to the hot oil it may start to burn and go black. If this happens just give the pan a wipe with some kitchen towel (without burning your fingers) and add some clean oil.

Once all the fillets are fried off and in another dish then let them sit in your warm oven until ready.

The final part which I think makes this dish a bit special is the addition of some chorizo. Again this is a classic flavour combination and is used extensively in Spain and the nowadays seeing fish and chorizo on the menu at top restaurants is very common. Perhaps a little more is the addition of goats cheese to the chorizo. I've stolen this little gem off Glynn Purnell who is one of my favourite chefs.....I'm sure he won't mind at all :-)

Take about 50g or Chorizo per person, remove the tough skin and dice the sausage into about 1cm cubes. Throw this into a hot frying pan and let it crisp up. As it's cooking you notice the beautiful smokey flavoured, paprika infused oil that seeps out of the sausage, again don't be concerned by this, yes it's a little naughty but the taste is phenomenal and well worth those few extra calories.

When the chorizo cubes look like they are crisping up take some of the goats cheese and crumble it into the pan, you don't need much, perhaps a thumb sized amount, it'll all melt together with the oil and make a wonderfully rich sauce.

All that's left to do now is to plate it up. Take some of the fennel salad and put in in the centre of the plate. On top of this place your two Sea Bass fillets then spoon over some of the chorizo cubes along with some of the sauce an dthere you have a rather wonderful dish that I'm sure will impress your friends and family alike.

Try it...you'll love it and it's easy peasy.

Toodlepip xxx

Thursday, 4 November 2010

Bathtime.....

The adventures in sous vide go on......

A couple of days ago I tried a recipe from one of my favourite chefs Glynn Purnell which he cooked for the Great British Menu series. It involved using Pork Fillet (Tenderloin) and of course involved using the water bath.

I was surprised to see that he only cooked the meat for 18 minutes at 62C as I assumed that you need to do it for longer but of course he knows better than me so I followed it and was unbelievably good.

Yes it was a little bit pink but using this cooking method ensures that when the internal temperature of the Pork fillet reaches 62C for more than 1 minute any trace of Trichinosis is killed off so it's absolutely fine to eat.

I finished these off with the blowtorch which gave the meat a beautiful golden colour and a slight crust.

Accompanying the Pork was a Water Chestnut purée (couldn't get any Jerusalem artichokes), Glazed Pears and perhaps the most outstanding part of the dish some Vanilla dipped Potatoes.

The potatoes are a revelation and very easy to make. You just set the oven to 130C and layer the bottom of a glass oven dish with 6 slices of potato about 1cm thick. Remove the seeds from a Vanilla pod and sprinkle these over the potatoes then just cover the whole lot with rapeseed oil, give it a bit of a stir around to get it mixed up well, bung in the empty pods too for more flavour then heat in the oven for about 30 mins or until they are soft. I suppose they could be described as a Confit of vanilla infused potato too.

The whole recipe can be found here

The whole combination of flavours was just immense and it's no wonder this guy has Michelin stars coming out his ears.

So this shorter cooking period got me thinking because about a week ago I cooked some Ribeye steaks in the water bath but I did them at 55C for about 8 hours and I was a little disappointed after that time to find them quite a bit smaller than I was hoping them to be, the flavour was absolutely stunning don't get me wrong and they were cooked perfectly to medium rare but I wanted to achieve a certain look with the finished article and that wasn't possible with what I ended up with.

After cooking Glynn Purnell's Pork Fillet it dawned on me that as a much more tender cut of meat I need not have cooked it for so long and in fact around just 40 minutes would have been fine so I'm going to give it another go this evening serving it up with some gorgeous chips (not my own creation but these and they are damn good) some Portobellini Mushroom and my own Chilli Pea creation.

I was also thinking of what else to try in the water bath so rather unlike my usual self I have pre-planned a couple of meals for tomorrow and Saturday.

For tomorrow I have a couple of Lamb Neck fillets all vacuum packed up and cooking away, these are going to cook for around 30 hours before I'll blowtorch them ready to serve up with some Parsnip purée and a warm Broad bean and Asparagus Salad.

The next meal will be Beef brisket which again is already cooking and will be doing so for around 40 hours, this is going to be served up full roast dinner style with all the trimmings.....Just what we're going to need after a rather massive night out on Friday DJ'ing at Walkabout, Reading and seeing our buddies the lovely Candice and Wesley back off to Australia.

Personally I think they are just leaving the country before our boys give their cricket team a good bashing during the upcoming Ashes series :-)